Aluminum Fence Installation Instructions

Aluminum Fence Installation

Your aluminum fence installation is a breeze with these simple instructions.

Click here for printable instructions: Aluminum Fence Installation Instructions

Tools List:
-String Line
-Wooden stakes for each Corner
-End and Gate Post location
-Post Hole Digger
-Phillips Screw Driver
-Reciprocating Saw or Hacksaw (Optional)
-Tin Snips (Optional)


  1. That you meet local codes for frontage locations, property lines, fence heights and any permit requirements
  2. Check with your local utility companies to locate underground pipelines, power lines, or cables.

PART 1: Preparing Fence Layout Before Starting Installation

  1. Locate fence lines.
  2. Drive stakes into the ground along fence line. Then stretch a string between each stake and extend the string 2′ beyond fence line.
  3. Mark End, Corner, and Gate post locations with a stake and then connect together with the string. The string will be your straight-line guide as to where the holes will be dug.

NOTE: The hinge side gate post is thicker than all the other posts.

Mark the location of the holes, as indicated by the ‘layout guide’ that is provided with every order. Mark holes on center at 72 1/2”.

Gate posts widths are measured from the inside of the post to the inside of the other gate post. Make sure all holes line up with the string line and you set the string at the height you want the bottom rail to sit.

Using the post hole digger, dig your holes 6″ wide, 24” – 42” deep, depending on the frost line in your part of the country.

NOTE: Using an 8” auger will give you more adjustment room for your post, but you will use more concrete. Using a 6” auger will give you less room for post adjustment, but you will use less concrete.

Depending on the distance between End and Corner posts, the line posts may not be on 6′ centers. In this case, you have to choose one of two options:
a) You can keep the line posts on 6′ centers and position one line post to a smaller distance. This means you will end up cutting one fence section down to size.
(this is the easier approach in terms of man hours)
b) You can position all the line posts at a smaller even distance and cut down the width of each fence section.
(harder approach but sections look even)

EXAMPLE: If you have a 10’ section, you can either cut 1 panel down to 4’ or 2 panels down to 5’

NOTE: If you cut down a panel, you will need to notch the horizontal rails to fit into the holes of the post.



PART 2: Setting your first Post and Panel

Attach one section of fence to the post by sliding the notched rails of the panel into the holes of the post. Then use a 1” self-tapping screw to screw into the side of the post through the rail inside to secure the fence panel to the post. Repeat this for the number of rails your fence panel has.

Put the post in the first hole. Plumb the post (using a level to ensure it’s perfectly straight up on two adjacent sides).

Mix concrete and pour into the hole.

NOTE: The post should always be in line with your string line and the bottom rail within 1” to 1 ½” of the desired bottom rail height.

Install 1 post & 1 panel at a time.

In filling the hole with concrete, leave it 2” short of the top of the hole. Fill the remaining 2″ with packed dirt and press tightly. This will help hold the post in place.

NOTE: Mix the concrete really wet so it easily fills in the entire whole. If the concrete is too wet or the hole too deep, and the post wants to dip down further, place a 2” block under the fence to keep it at the proper height.

Once that line is completed, go back and adjust each post to ensure the fence is following the grade and has a nice smooth flow to it. This needs to be done immediately following or during the installation before the concrete has time to dry.

NOTE: If your line ended at a corner, make sure that the last post is a corner post with the holes facing in the direction of the next line of fencing.

Continue until all lines are complete.


Part 3: Installing your Gate:

Make sure your 2” gate posts are plumb and the concrete is hard.

Double check layout guide for the swing direction of the gate.

NOTE: If there is any slope, you want your gate to open downhill.

Install hinges on the installed 2” gate post, using screws provided.

Adjustable hinges are shipped with an Allen Wrench. Utilize the Allen Wrench to release the tension on the hinge and remove the Cotter Pin. Adjust the hinges and install with the bolt facing the gate. Leave approximately 1” for the hinge and 1” for the latch.

Center the gate in the opening and install each hinge.

Once the gate swings well, replace the Cotter Pin in the hinge.

Do not use gate until concrete around gate post is fully hardened. This usually takes about 24 hours!



aluminum fence installation


We breakdown the overall example layout listed above, into smaller linear runs, like from point A to point B, and point B to point C and so on. In the example layout, we start at point A with an End Post 2-3″ away from the house and go away from the house 10′ to point B which is a Gate End Post. In this first ‘run’, we have 10′ of fence, which divided by 6′ (the width of the panels) equates to 1.67 panels which is rounded up to 2 because the panels are only shipped in 6′ widths. Because there are 2 panels, we will have only 1 Line Post. Line post quantities are equal to the number of panels minus 1.

In this first run from A to B, you will have:

1 End Post

2 Fence Panels

1 Line Post

1 Gate Post (these are typically just like End Posts but with a thicker wall. Point K is going to be a Blank Gate Post) All posts come with a flattened pyramid cap standard. You may wish to upgrade to a ball cap.

In this run, B to C, we have a 4′ wide gate which is measured from the inside of the gate post to the inside of the other Gate End Post, point C. Because we already added the first gate post in the previous section, all we have in the second run is:

4′ Wide Gate (these gates include self closing hinges and Z-Lock Lockable Latch and can be upgraded to heavier framing or to an Arch Gate)

1 Gate Post

From C to D which is to the Corner Post, we’ll have 9′ of fence which equals 1.5 panels (9 divided by 6′ wide panel), rounded to 2 Panels and 1 Line Post (2 panels minus 1 = 1 Line Post).

This run’s total:

1 Line Post

1 Corner Post

2 Fence Panels (these panels can be installed in widths of 6′ with the other panel cut down to 3′ wide or both panels can be cut down to 4.5′ to give a more even look. The same is true for the first section of 10′. It could be 6′ wide and 4′ wide or both cut to 5′ wide. Not many, if any, of these runs will work out to be an exact measurement divisible by 6′, so some cutting of the panels will be required during the installation process.)

From D to E which is to another Corner Post, the length is 40′. Divided by 6 equals 6.67 panels (40 divided by 6′ wide panel), rounded to 7 Panels and 6 Line Posts (7 panels minus 1 = 6 Line Posts).

This run’s total:

6 Line Posts

1 Corner Post

7 Fence Panels (6 of these panels can be used without any cutting of the panels, but the last one will need to be cut down to 4′ wide)

From E to F which is to a Gate End Post, the length is 42′ which is divisible by 6′. This equals 7 panels and 6 Line Posts (7 panels minus 1 = 6 Line Posts).

This run’s total:

6 Line Posts

1 Gate Post

7 Fence Panels

From F to G which is to another Gate End Post, the width of the Gate is 3′ (again, inside of post to inside of post.

This run’s total:

1 Gate Post

3′ Wide Gate (these gates include self closing hinges and Z-Lock Lockable Latch and can be upgraded to heavier framing or to an Arch Gate)

The next three runs, from G to J can be done the same way as the previous three sections (4,5, & 6) which lead to another Gate End Post.

This last run, J to K is a 10′ wide double gate. It can be two standard gates or two Arches next to one another or one big Arch across the whole width. Also, as mentioned previously, the final Blank Gate Post has no holes for fence rails to slide into like the End, Line and Corner Posts have.

In this final run you would have:

1 Blank Gate Post (the other Gate Post would have been included in the previous run)

10′ Wide Double Gate (these gates can be upgraded to heavier framing, Arched Gates or Swag Gates)

Drop Rod Assembly

Different post types

fence post

Installing on a slope?

Racking vs Stepping Your Fence


aluminum fence

example of a racked fence

Most aluminum fence styles can Rack or Rake by pivoting on the screws that attach the pickets to the rails.  They average 12″ of rack per 6′ run of fence. This is done at no additional charge. If you tell us the drop over a certain sloped area, we’ll calculate the correct quantity of each type of fence in our quote.


aluminum fence

example of a stepped fence

Some styles can only be stepped. (“Stair Stepping” because of the appearance) This is done by ordering end posts and attaching brackets on the opposite blank side from the punched out holes at the appropriate height that your slope demands. Steep slopes might cause a need for a custom extra long end post. We’ll explain more if needed. Another reason why we walk every order through to completion, please call us if you need help determining the best solution for your application. We want our customers to get the correct materials the first time to make their installation as trouble-free as possible.

Click here for printable instructions: Aluminum Fence Installation Instructions